Sunday, February 09, 2014

Quite A Grand Adventure: Swan Lake and the Národní Divadlo

Theater is a significant part of Czech culture. The Národní Divadlo (National Theater) consists of five different venues that host a variety of ballets, operas, concerts, and plays every night. Within the past eleven days, I have gotten to visit three of the five stages and have seen three different performances: Americana II at the State Opera, Cosi fan Tutte at the Estates Theater, and Swan Lake at the National Theater.

Americana III – the State Opera: opened January 5, 1888, the State Opera was originally created as a Prague German stage. It only took a few years before the Prague Germans and Czech companies desired separate stages, so in 1883 negotiations began for the German Theater Association to construct their own building. The State Opera became part of the National Theater in 2012 and hosts performances for the Opera and Ballet. 
Americana III is a three-part ballet by American choreographers George Balanchine, Jerome Robbins and William Forsythe. We went as part of an excursion with our costume studio. While the entire performance was a ballet, each part focused on a different style. The first was classical, complete with bouncing tutus, men in tights, and all the graceful footwork and movements associated with ballet. The second was edgy and modern, very different from anything I've seen under the title “ballet.” Each performer wore a green leotard and tights, thought different cuts and styles. The stage was dimly lit with a spotlight in the center, so any performers on the outskirts of the stage were shadows rather than dancers. The music was less musical and more rhythmic, using percussive instruments and a few stringed instruments to create an eerie and intense sound. The dancing, while still maintaining the grace of traditional ballet, incorporated more rigid and almost robotic movements and focused on smaller, very precise hand and foot movements rather than full body motions. The final part took a theatrical approach – when the curtain pulled back a set was revealed, and the performers came out in costumes rather than leotards. The comedic story was one of three sailors attempting to pick up two girls at a bar, fighting with each other for their affections, showing off their various dance skills, and eventually losing the girls and resolving their differences over a final drink. That is, until they exit the bar and meet another attractive lady, where the curtain closes and leaves the audience to imagine the entire fiasco taking place once again.

Cosi fan Tutte – the Estates Theater: opened in 1783 and joining the National Theater in 1920, the Estates Theater is the oldest of the five stages. The first of many infrequent Czech performances took place in 1785. In 1812, the theater began hosting regular Sunday and holiday matinees. This venue was used for the world premiers of two operas by Mozart: Don Giovanni in 1787 and La clemenza di Tito in 1791. The Opera, Drama, and Ballet ensembles perform at this venue. 
Cosi fan Tutte (“All Women Are The Same”) is an Italian opera written by Mozart.
Plot: Two men are bet by a friend that their women are not faithful. They accept the bet, knowing that the ladies' hearts belong only to them. They tell their girlfriends that they are being called away to war, and once they have “left,” adopt disguises and attempt to woo the others' woman. As one might assume, the ladies reject the advances a few times but eventually give in. The friend wins his bet and his comrades rage in disbelief at the unfaithfulness of their girlfriends, debating how to punish them, until he says that the only logical course of action is to marry them. In the end, (spoiler alert) they reveal their identities and get married to their original sweethearts.
Opinion: The story was stupid, but the performers were incredible, both as singers and as actors. Because the songs were in Italian, there were translations in English and Czech projected above the stage, but even without reading the words of each song it was still possible to understand the plot through the emotions displayed by the cast. I would gladly see those performers again, though I would prefer to see them in a different show. Again, the story was stupid.

Swan Lake Národní Divadlo: the National Theater was finished in 1883, fifteen years after the foundation stone was laid in May of 1868. Initial construction was funded by donations collected from the public. The theater opened before completion in June of 1881 in honor of the Austrian prince's visit to Prague. It hosted a total of twelve performances before it was closed to allow for the finishing touches to be made. Two months later, August 12, a fire broke out in the building, destroying the dome, auditorium, and stage. It was reopened in November of 1883 with a performance of Smetana's opera Libuše, composed specially for the occasion. In April of 1977, it was closed for six years while undergoing redevelopment, opening once again in November of 1983 with a performance of  Libuše. Now, the building serves as the main stage, hosting performances for the Drama, Opera, and Ballet. 
Swan Lake. Oh, Swan Lake. The story, the dancing, the costumes, the orchestra, the set. Everything was incredible. I don't know how much I can even say about it because it was so beyond words. We (Sarah, Will and I) sat in the middle row of the top balcony and still had a magnificent view. Everything, from the dramatic solos and duets to the ensemble scenes, was perfection. I love dancing, I miss dancing, and this ballet made me wish I still did it regularly. During intermission, we sat in our seats and absorbed the surroundings – the architecture, the ceiling, the chandelier – and talked about how incredible the dancers were. They were truly mind blowing.



We've officially decided that we're going to attempt to make theater visits a regular thing. The whole experience is so unlike anything else I've done, and seats are so affordable (our Swan Lake tickets were each 180 Kc, about $9) that I, for one, would regret not going as frequently as possible. We have multiple scheduled opera visits for my opera class, as well as a group excursion with the Institute, but I will be scouting out ballets as well. I've made it a goal to see performances at the two other venues – New Stage and Kolowrat Theater – while I'm here, just so I can say I've been to all of them. Because why not?

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